The route from Virpazar to Bar via the Bijela Skala Pass is considered one of the most scenic hiking trails in southern Montenegro. It connects two completely different worlds: the tranquil shores of Lake Skadar and the Mediterranean Adriatic coast. The Starlight group’s hike passed through the villages of Virpazar, Godinje, Gornja Seoca, Gurza, Bijela Skala, and Bar, allowing them to see virtually all the natural areas of the Crmnica region and the southern slopes of the Rumija mountain range in one day.
Virpazar – the gateway to Lake Skadar
Virpazar is located at the confluence of the Crmnica River and Lake Skadar and historically served as an important trade hub between the interior of Montenegro and the coast. Today, it is the main tourist center of Lake Skadar National Park and the starting point for most boat excursions.
Interesting facts about Virpazar
- According to the 2011 census, the village’s population was only 277.
- The famous Belgrade-Bar railway, one of the most impressive railway lines in the Balkans, passes through Virpazar.
- Nearby stands the Besac Fortress, built by the Ottomans to control the routes along the lake.
It was from here, on March 14, 2026, that our group began its ascent along the ancient roads of the Crmnica region.
Godinje – a stone fortress of winemakers
After a few kilometers, the trail leads to the ancient village of Godinje, located on a slope above the lake. It is one of the most unusual historical settlements in Montenegro.
Characteristics of Godinje
According to local legend, the village’s name is associated with Prince Jovan Vladimir, who liked the place (“godilo”) so much that the settlement was named Godinje. The village’s history dates back to at least the 13th century, and in the 14th century, it was the summer residence of the Balšić dynasty.
The village is particularly renowned for its unique architecture:
- houses were built close together;
- a system of internal passages and arches existed between the buildings;
- some sections of the village resembled a fortified labyrinth to protect against Ottoman raids.
Interesting facts about Godinje
- Godinje’s architecture has been studied by experts in traditional Balkan construction as a unique example of rural fortification.
- The village is considered one of the winemaking centers of the Crmnica region, where winemaking traditions have been preserved for over five centuries.
- In the opposite bay lies the island fortress of Grmožur, known as the “Montenegrin Alcatraz.”
For the hikers, Godinje was the first major stop and an opportunity to enjoy the views of Lake Skadar.
Gornja Seoca – High Above the Lake
Gornja Seoca is located above Godinje on the slopes of Crmnica. It offers some of the best panoramas of the lake and its many bays.
As you ascend, the landscape gradually changes: the vineyards are left behind, and the trail enters a more rugged karst zone. Stone terraces, old shepherd’s trails, and scattered houses recall a time when the locals lived primarily by herding livestock.
Interesting Facts
- The upper villages of Crmnica served as seasonal shepherd’s settlements for centuries.
- Many ancient trails were used as trade routes between the coast and the areas around Lake Skadar.
- From the heights around Gornja Seoca, on a clear day, both the lake and the Adriatic Sea are visible.
Gurza – a transition zone between the lake and the mountains
Gurza is located in a sparsely populated mountainous area between Crmnica and the Rumija ridge. Here the route becomes wilder and more secluded. You’ll encounter old stone cattle pens, springs, and traces of traditional farming. This part of the hike is especially appreciated by lovers of authentic Montenegro, as it is significantly less crowded than the popular coastal routes.
Interesting Facts
- The area remained off the main tourist trails for a long time.
- Cattle herding routes between summer and winter pastures passed through the area.
- Due to its remoteness, the traditional landscapes of Crmnica have been well-preserved.
Bijela Skala Pass – The Main Point of the Route
Bijela Skala is one of the most famous passes in southern Montenegro. It is located on a mountain ridge between Lake Skadar and the Adriatic coast.
Significance of the Pass
BIJELA SKALA is the lowest pass, a pass through the Rumija mountain range, located above Tuđemilj, at an altitude of 910 m. It got its name because the ascent is stepped, and a step is an Italian scale. The road is paved with cobblestones, smoothed by the footprints of people and livestock over centuries.
Another possible translation is that the name translates as “White Rock” and refers to the characteristic light-colored limestone rocks that form the surrounding terrain.
The pass is famous for its panoramic views:
- of Lake Skadar;
- of the Adriatic coast;
- of the city of Bar;
- of the Rumija mountain range.
For the Starlight group, this was the culmination of the hike. After a long climb, the participants had the opportunity to simultaneously see two of the most significant natural landmarks of southern Montenegro—the lake and the sea.
Interesting facts about Bijela Skala
- The pass is located on old routes connecting the coast with the interior of the country.
- Routes through Bijela Skala are popular among trekkers due to the combination of sea and mountain scenery.
- From the ridge, you can observe the dramatic change in climate: from the Mediterranean coastal vegetation to the karst highlands.
Descent to Bar
The final part of the route runs along the southern slopes of Rumija towards Bar, the largest city on Montenegro’s southern coast.
After the harsh mountain landscapes, travelers are greeted by olive groves, cypress trees, and the scent of Mediterranean herbs. The descent gradually leads to the Adriatic coast.
Interesting facts about Bar
- Bar is Montenegro’s main seaport.
- It is home to Old Bar, a medieval fortified town located at the foot of the Rumija Mountains.
- The famous Old Olive Tree (Staro Maslinovo Drvo), over two thousand years old—one of the oldest olive trees in Europe—grows nearby.
- The Belgrade–Bar railway, considered an engineering masterpiece of the Balkans, reaches Bar.
Hiking Summary
The total length of the route is 31 km, with a total elevation gain of 1,100 meters, and the walk took us about 10 hours.
The Virpazar–Godinje–Gornja Seoca–Gurza–Bijela Skala–Bar route is one of the most interesting linear treks in southern Montenegro. Along the way, participants pass through the historic wine-growing villages of Crmnica, ascend to the karst ridges of Rumija, cross the Biijela Skala pass, and conclude on the Adriatic coast.
For the Starlight group, this hike was more than just a sporting route, but a journey through different eras and landscapes of Montenegro—from the medieval settlements near Lake Skadar to the modern seaside town of Bar.
