Ulcinj has many facets. In summer, it’s bustling and hot, with music on the promenade and warm sand beneath your bare feet. In winter, it’s honest and tranquil: the sea is darker, the air is saltier, and the old walls of the Old Town resonate especially loudly because there’s less hustle and bustle. This is how the Starlight group saw Ulcinj, which on December 20, 2025, once again held its traditional walk and “walked around the whole of Ulcinj”—from the stone fortress on the cliff to the sandy horizon of Velika Plaza.
Old Town: Stone, Wind, and Movie-Like Views
The heart of Ulcinj is Stari Grad, the old fortified town perched on a rocky outcrop above the sea. Its value lies not only in the panoramas (they’re truly postcard-perfect), but in the sense of multi-layeredness: narrow cobbled streets, arches, staircases, small squares where you want to slow down and simply listen to the city.
One of the most recognizable symbols is Kula Balšića: a tower linked to the city’s medieval history and today often used as a cultural space.
On December days like these, the Old Town is especially beautiful: the sun is low, the light is soft, and the sea below seems endless.
The Starlight route logically included short stops “for the view”: the fortress walls, lookout points overlooking the bay, and quiet corners where you can hear the waves crashing against the rocks. And this is that rare walking format where the “main attraction” is not a specific point on the map, but the path between them.
Ulcinj Beaches: From the City Arc to the Sandy Ocean
Mala Plaža and Korzo – City Life by the Sea
At the foot of the Old Town lies Mala Plaža, a city bay with fine sand and a lively promenade. It is separated from the cafes and promenade by the famous Korzo, the local name for the promenade.
In summer, it’s packed, and in December, it’s the perfect spot for a quiet coffee overlooking the sea and the fortress’s silhouette.
Velika plaža – “Ulcinj’s Copacabana”
Velika plaža, also known as Long Beach, is Ulcinj’s main “space”: a long sandy beach stretching for approximately 12-13 km from Port Milena to the Bojana River.
It’s often called the “Ulcinj Copacabana”: fine sand, a wide shoreline (averaging about 60 m), and that feeling that the sea here is “wider” than usual.
In summer, Velika plaža is a family beach with miles of beach amenities, and in winter, it’s the perfect end to a hiking trail: few people, plenty of air, and a steady pace. During the warm season, kiteboarding and windsurfing are especially popular here due to the frequent winds along the coast.
Ulcinj is also famous for its unusual spot – Ženska plaža (Women’s Beach).
This is a small pebble bay where only women are allowed to enter; the beach is fenced off, and the rule is strictly enforced (some descriptions specifically emphasize that this restriction may also apply to boys).
What makes it special:
- The beach is known for its underwater spring containing sulfur compounds (hydrogen sulfide), which is why the place is often referred to as a “health resort” (it’s important to understand this as a local tradition and tourist attraction, not as a medical recommendation).
- Basic amenities are usually available (showers/toilets, sun loungers, a café), and an entrance fee is charged (one guidebook mentions around 2 euros; conditions may vary depending on the season).
- You may also find information about opening hours (for example, daytime hours).
In contrast to Velika Plaža, a “women’s beach” isn’t about kilometers and wind, but rather about privacy, silence, and a small, enclosed harbor, where even the sound of the waves seems closer.
On the day of the Starlight walk, Velika Plaža was exactly what winter walkers love: minimal crowds, maximum air, and a long, flat shoreline that’s pleasant for “calming your thoughts.”
Health Trail: From Hotel Albatros to Velika Plaža – the best winter route
Ulcinj has a walk popular with locals and winter walkers, often called the “health trail” – it runs along the sea, through pine trees and open vistas. Popular descriptions of the route directly connect the Hotel Albatros and Velika Plaža.
Start: Hotel Albatros – pine trees, fresh air, and the feeling of a “resort out of season”
Hotel Albatros is located near the center of Ulcinj and, crucially for a walk, near a green area: it marks its location as being surrounded by a pine grove and about a kilometer from the city center.
This is the perfect “meeting point”: step out, and within a couple of minutes, you’re in the air, filled with the scent of pine needles and sea salt.
What the route looks like (in simple terms)
The route is best described not in kilometers (which are different for everyone), but in changing images:
- Pine patches: soft shade even in winter, the scent of pine needles, a steady pace.
- Rocky sections: in some places, the trail runs close to the steep bank – beautiful, but it’s best to watch your step, especially after rain.
- Open “balconies” overlooking the sea: you’ll want to stop there every five minutes – simply because the view resets your batteries.
- The exit to the sand of Velika Plaža: a sharp transition from rock and pine trees to a wide stretch of sand—it’s as if a different “mode” of nature had been activated.
The Starlight Walk, December 20, 2025: A Tradition That Becomes a Route
This story has an important detail: the group came not “for the first time,” but again—meaning it’s already a tradition. And this makes sense: Ulcinj reveals itself best through repetition. With each lap, you notice things you previously missed: a new turn in the Old Town, a different shade of water, a different “music” of the wind on Velika Plaža.
In December, the route is especially convenient: there’s no sweltering heat, you can walk for a long time and steadily, while the sea and air do their work—that very “healthy” part of the walk.
Practical tips for a winter walk
- Shoes: sneakers with grippy soles are best—the rocks can be slippery.
- Windbreaker: by the sea, the wind easily “eats” heat, even if the sun is shining. • Water/tea: In winter, you’ll feel less thirsty, but this can be deceiving on a long walk.
- Time: It gets dark early in winter, so it’s best to start in the morning.
A finale you’ll want to repeat
Ulcinj is a rare city where you can explore three different worlds in a single day: a fortress on a cliff, a city beach with Korzo, and the endless sand of Velika Plaža, all connected by a trail that heals not with pills, but with steps and air.
