Introduction
At the beginning of August, the Starlight group set off on an unusual hike — a night hike from Virpazar to Bar along the legendary Old Bar Road. Today, this route is rarely used by pedestrians: the highway has long since led away, and the route itself has become more of a path for romantics, historians and those looking for the atmosphere of old Montenegro.
33 kilometers in the silence of the night, under the dome of stars, among vineyards, mountain passes and ancient villages. The route became a real journey through time — from the lake shores of Lake Skadar to the coastal streets of Bar.
Lake Skadar — the heart of the Balkans
Lake Skadar is the largest lake on the Balkan Peninsula, with an area ranging from 370 to 530 square kilometers depending on the season. It lies on the border between Montenegro and Albania, and its shores are an alternation of reed beds, picturesque islands, and stone monasteries.
The lake is part of a national park and is home to more than 280 species of birds, including pelicans, herons, and cormorants. Dozens of ancient fortresses, monasteries, and abandoned villages have been preserved on its shores.
Virpazar, where the route starts, is considered the unofficial “capital” of Lake Skadar.
When the Starlight group left the town, the lake had already plunged into evening silence. In the moonlight, its surface seemed mercury, and quiet splashes were heard in the reeds — perhaps these were night herons hunting. Virpazar – from a fortress to a wine capital
Virpazar appeared in the Middle Ages as a fortified point on an important trade route connecting coastal towns with the interior. In the 19th century it became a bustling trade center, and in the 20th century – a popular place for winemaking.
The town stands on three bridges over small rivers connecting Lake Skadar with the sea. In the evening twilight, its narrow streets and stone houses seem to come alive with memories of old times: the smell of wine coming from the cellars, the warm light in the windows and the distant voices of fishermen.
Limljani – a vineyard valley at night
After a few kilometers, the road leads to the village of Limljani. Its history goes back centuries: archaeologists have found traces of Illyrian settlements here, and in the Middle Ages this area was an important agricultural center.
Limljani is famous for its vineyards and olive groves. Even at night, in the cool of August, the air here is thick with the smell of wine berries. Old stone houses with tiled roofs and wooden shutters sleep quietly, and the occasional bark of a dog reminds us that life goes on after sunset.
The Plamenac Family Mansion – Witnesses of History
Not far from Limljani stands the ancient estate of the Plamenac family. This family made a significant contribution to the history of Montenegro: its representatives held the posts of ministers, diplomats and officers.
The mansion, built in the 19th century, is a massive building with thick stone walls, arched doors and spacious balconies. Receptions were once held here and political issues were decided, but now the house stands in silence, hidden in the shade of trees.
The Plamenac Family – Aristocrats and Statesmen of Montenegro
The Plamenac family name occupies a special place in the history of Montenegro. The family originated in the Crmnica region, and references to it can be found as early as the 17th century. It was one of the most influential aristocratic clans of the principality, whose members combined military skill, political savvy and diplomatic talent.
Interesting facts:
- Military leaders and diplomats
Members of the family often held key positions in the government of the Principality of Montenegro. Many of them served in the army and participated in battles against the Ottoman Empire, defending the country’s independence.
- Minister of Foreign Affairs
One of the most famous representatives of the family is Ilija Plamenac (1821-1916), who was the Minister of Foreign Affairs of Montenegro in the 19th century. He played a significant role in establishing diplomatic ties with Russia and other European powers.
- Closeness to the princely family
The Plamenac family had a trusting relationship with the ruling Petrović-Njegoš dynasty. Their mansion in the Limljani area has often hosted princely envoys and foreign guests.
- Guardians of Crmnica traditions
The Plamenac family is known as the protector of the cultural heritage of the Crmnica region, an area famous for its vineyards, olive groves and ancient Orthodox churches.
- Dramatic pages of history
At the beginning of the 20th century, in the turbulent years before the First World War, some members of the family found themselves in the center of political disputes and even emigrated to escape persecution.
Today, the Plamenac family mansion is a silent witness to a bygone era. Its walls remember receptions, diplomatic negotiations and quiet evenings under the stars, when the owners of the house discussed the fate of a small but proud principality.
Ascent to the Sutorman Pass
The old road gradually gains altitude, and by midnight the group begins the ascent to the Sutorman Pass. This route has been known since the Middle Ages: salt, olive oil and other oil, wine and wool from the interior of Montenegro to the sea and back.
At the pass, which is located at an altitude of about 900 meters, there are views of both Lake Skadar and the Adriatic. At night, in the light of the stars and lanterns, the road seems endless. Only a rare gust of wind brings the aroma of mountain herbs and the rustle of leaves.
Descent to Bar – meeting with the sea
After the pass, a long descent begins. The lights of Bar are visible from afar, shimmering below like a scattering of precious stones.
Bar is an ancient city with a rich history. Here, Roman roads crossed with caravan routes, and later the city became an important Ottoman port. Old Bar, located a little away from the coast, still preserves the ruins of a fortress, mosques and Orthodox churches.
Summary
The Virpazar – Bar route along the Old Road is not just 33 kilometers of walking. This is a journey where the silence of lake shores, the aromas of vineyards, the history of old mansions and the coolness of mountain passes are combined in one night. The Starlight group covered the distance in 6 hours 20 minutes of pure movement, but with stops, photo pauses and night conversations the total time was about 11 hours. This was not just a hike, but a memory that will warm you for many years.
