From July 12 to 13, 2025, the Starlight group, consisting of 11 members, undertook an eventful two-day journey through the scenic areas of Prokletije National Park in Montenegro. The route brought together the region’s most stunning natural landmarks — from mountain passes and canyons to glacial springs and alpine peaks.
Each of us was searching for something different — some for the silence of the mountains, others for inspiration or discovery — but all were united by a deep sense of awe for the wild, living nature. Our itinerary included:
- The Trešnjevik Pass and Radmilica café, overlooking valleys and the Komovi mountains,
- The emerald lake Oko Skakavice, the Grlja waterfall, and the powerful Ali Pasha’s springs in Gusinje,
- An overnight stay in the picturesque Grebaje Valley, complete with a starlit evening walk,
- And finally, a hike to the summit of Volušnica (1,879 m), offering a view of three iconic Prokletije peaks: Talijanka, Popadija, and Maja Can.
1. First Stop: Trešnjevik Pass and Radmilica – Enjoy the View
Trešnjevik Pass lies along the road from Serbia toward Gusinje, and it is here that the café Radmilica (Enjoy the View) is located. The spot is known for its breathtaking views of the mountainous landscapes and serves as a convenient resting point after the climb. Here, travelers can take a break and admire the valley — a perfect reflection of the café’s motto, “Enjoy the View.”
The pass, officially known as Prevoj Trešnjevik, sits at an elevation of approximately 1,563 meters above sea level.
2. Ropojana Valley and Oko Skakavice — “The Grasshopper’s Eye”
Oko Skakavice, or “The Blue Eye,” is a karst spring located at an altitude of about 1,000 meters, forming a crystal-clear lake around 25 m wide and up to 70 m deep. Water emerges from a deep underground point, creating a tranquil, eye-shaped lagoon surrounded by forest. The water is extremely cold — around 5°C — making swimming inadvisable, though it is safe to drink. Often referred to as a “Wonder of Prokletije”, it is renowned for its striking beauty.
The Skakavica River flows out of this source, running for about 500 meters through the Grlja canyon, where it drops into a waterfall of around 15 meters — forming the Grlja Waterfall.
3. Grlja Waterfall and Canyon
Grlja is a scenic waterfall about 12–15 meters high, located directly next to a parking area at the entrance to Ropojana Valley. Fed by the Blue Eye and other mountain sources, the stream plunges into a narrow canyon, creating a dramatic natural chute — with safety rails installed nearby for better viewing. This is also where the trail into Ropojana Valley begins.
4. Ali Pasha’s Springs near Gusinje
Ali Pasha’s Springs are a collection of springs bursting from the base of a hill just beyond Gusinje, forming numerous small pools that merge into a powerful mountain stream. The mineral-rich water is considered beneficial, and the springs are surrounded by stunning alpine scenery — an ideal place to rest and witness nature’s raw energy.
Locally known as Ali Pašini izvori or Krojet e Ali Pashës, these large karst springs are located just 1.5 km from Gusinje at about 925 meters elevation. The springs are named after Ali-Pasha Šabanagaj, a 19th-century regional leader. Previously, they were known by names such as Vrulja, Vrela, and Savini izvori.
The springs cover a surface area of around 300 m², and their water flow can reach up to 4 m³ per second, making them Montenegro’s largest permanent karst spring.
5. Grebaje Valley — Overnight in the Mountains
Grebaje Valley is the central area of Prokletije within the national park, famed for its harmonious natural landscape: wide meadows intersected by the Valušnički stream, and flanked by majestic ranges like Karanfili and Vezirova Brada. The gorge is located about 7 km from Gusinje, at approximately 1,150 meters elevation, and serves as the starting point for numerous trails, including the popular Volušnica/Talijanka/Popadija loop.
Camping in Grebaje Valley offers the perfect opportunity to spend a night under the stars, surrounded by peaks and immersed in evening stillness.
6. Night Walk: The “Kissing Cats” Rock Formation
This natural sculpture — a romantic highlight of your night hike — consists of two rocks that resemble kissing cats, located on a ridge or outcrop above the valley. Though not officially marked on maps, this charming spot is known among hikers and adds a whimsical, emotional touch to the trail. Such folk-named features are common in the Prokletije region and often celebrated by returning visitors.
Day 2: Ascent to Volušnica and Views of Talijanka & Popadija
Climbing Mount Volušnica (also known as Maja Can)
The next day, the group set off from Grebaje Valley toward the summit of Volušnica, which rises to about 1,879 meters above sea level. The trail begins at roughly 1,160 meters near Grebaje Hut (Dom Grbaja), implying a vertical gain of about 719 meters.
As the group climbed, they emerged from forested paths onto alpine meadows, blooming with fireweed, St. John’s wort, and ripe wild strawberries — creating a vibrant and soulful atmosphere for the hike.
Summit Views
From the summit of Volušnica, hikers are rewarded with a stunning panorama of the entire ridge, including the three major peaks of the Prokletije range:
- Talijanka (approx. 2,057 m; also known as Maja e Vajushës),
- Popadija (approx. 2,057 m, though some sources note 2,030 m — most reliable sources use 2,057 m),
- And Volušnica itself (1,879 m).
These peaks straddle the border with Albania and are part of the iconic ridgeline above Grebaje Valley.
Trail Route: Volušnica → Talijanka → Popadija
From Volušnica, the trail continues along the ridge to Talijanka, then on to Popadija. This classic loop route spans 10–12 km, with an elevation gain of roughly 1,000 meters, and usually takes 5–6 hours to complete. The route is well-marked with red and white trail blazes. From Talijanka, one can see deep into the Albanian highlands; Popadija offers sweeping views of Karanfili and Ropojanska Vrata.
This loop is still on our to-do list — a challenge we eagerly look forward to completing.
Summary and Impressions
The Starlight group’s journey was masterfully planned: a scenic stop at Trešnjevik Pass, the surreal karst spring Oko Skakavice, the raw power of Grlja Waterfall, the mineral bounty of Ali Pasha’s Springs, a starry night in Grebaje Valley, and the mysterious charm of the Kissing Cats rock formation — all seamlessly woven into the wild, aesthetic grandeur of the Prokletije region.
Each destination was a verified natural marvel, rich in geological, hydrological, and ecological value, described in official and scientific sources. This trip was not just a hike — it was a symphony of nature, experience, and shared discovery.
